How to Make Beer with BREWHA

This article is about how to make beer. If you have been making homebrew already, much of what is discussed here will be familiar. If you are completely new to brewing, in addition to this article and video (see this page for the video on how to make beer), there are other articles that you can read in the 'Learn' section on our website that will also help.

In the article below we demonstrate how to make beer with the BREWHA BIAC All in One brewing system which comes in eight different sizes. We discuss in 12 steps how to make beer using the BREWHA BIAC beer brewing system. We will be making 118L/31USG/1BBL of beer, which is larger than most homebrew volumes (unless one has a lot of thirsty friends!), however, the recipe can be easily scaled up or down to any of the eight sizes that we sell (from smallest homebrew 5gallon to commercial 15BBL) using a program such as BrewFather. This is an all grain or malt recipe using the freshest ingredients, not made from a homebrew kit purchased on Amazon, or an extract brew and will taste better as the ingredients are fresher. Extract however, can be used with the BREWHA BIAC, and if you prefer to brew this way, which some do for homebrew, it reduces a few of the steps. Extract kits are available online and while better results can certainly be obtained with better equipment and ingredients, the kits provide a relatively simple way for beginners. 

The BREWHA BIAC is the simplest way to brew the best beer. It is simplest to set up, it is simplest to operate, and it is simplest to clean, all the while taking up the smallest footprint of any commercial system, and using the least amount of water, while still providing full control over the brewing process so that you can make the best tasting beer, exactly how you want it. Total time for making a batch of beer in this equipment is about 6 hours including clean up. 

Sections:

Brewing Equipment
How to Make Beer (Amber Ale Recipe)
Step 1 Heating
Step 2 Add Mashing Malt or Grain Ingredients
Step 3 Vorlauf the Malt
Step 4 Lautering the Grains and Heatup 
Step 5 Boiling
Step 6 Cooling the Wort (sugar solution)
Step 7 Filtering and Resting, Pitching Yeast 
Step 8 Rinsing out the Mash Colander and Pump Assembly Equipment
Step 9 Fermentation with Yeast
Step 10 Conditioning and Carbonation in Fermenter or Bottle
Step 11 Racking/Transferring to Bottle / Bottling or Kegs / Kegging
Step 12 Cleaning the Fermenter for the Next Brew

Note: This article on how to make beer follows the brewing section (starting pg 45) in the BREWHA beer brewing system manual

Brewing Equipment

In this article we are going to be discussing how to make beer using the BREWHA BIAC brewing system. We will be making 118L/31USG/1BBL of beer, however, the recipe can be easily scaled up or down to any of the sizes that we sell using a program such as BrewFather (or can make your own new recipe).

The BREWHA BIAC is the simplest way to brew the best beer.  It is simplest equipment to set up, it is simplest to operate, and it is simplest to clean, all the while taking up the smallest footprint of any brewing system, and using the least amount of water, while still providing full control over the brewing process so that you can make the best tasting beer, exactly how you want it. And it is the only brewing system in the world that uses heat to sanitize, rather than toxic cleaning chemicals.

All of this has been achieved by reducing the brewhouse (what in a traditional brewery is a large platform with multiple fixed vessels and lots of piping and pumps—or in a homebrew setup involves multiple pots and burners) to just one vessel (the Mash Colander). One Mash Colander can be used in as many different BREWHA BIAC conical fermenters as a customer wants to meet the production needs of their brewery, be it 1, 2, 4, 6 or 10…. You name it.

Well let’s get into the brew! Additional questions you might have about the system will likely come clear as we go about making our way through the brew.

How to Make an Amber Ale Beer Recipe (All grain, not from an extract kit)

Today we will be brewing an Amber Ale -- the all-grain beer recipe and brew sheet recipe showing key numbers and ingredients we will be following can be found, along with several other brew recipes on the BREWHA website (we are using metric units today but in Brewfather beer recipe program, units can be changed however one prefers) and for easy reference, we will be following the general structure for brewing that is laid out in the brewing section of the BREWHA manual. To search for either, just enter the search word ‘amber ale recipe’ or ‘BREWHA manual’ on the BREWHA website.

After brewing a few times, making a new recipes is not that difficult (and fresher and more customizable to taste than getting a kit). Brewing software programs such as programs such as Brewfather and Beersmith can help you calculate exactly what is needed, as well as help build recipes with ingredients for given styles of beer. BREWHA BIAC equipment and mash profiles for use can be downloaded, find them by searching for ‘profile’ on the BREWHA website.

How to Make Beer in the BREWHA BIAC

1. Heating: 30–60 minutes

H₂O for soaking the grain (called ‘strike’ or ‘mash water’) is added to the fermenter and heated (with immersion heaters in the fermenter it also serves as the kettle). Tap H₂O can be added if it is good quality; as a general rule if it tastes good, it can be used for brewing, however, if it contains a lot of minerals, metals or chlorine (anything that might contribute off-flavor), Reverse Osmosis (RO) H₂O should be used. (Softened H₂O should not be used, as it often contributes too much sodium. Some minerals, especially calcium, are necessary, so if low, brewing minerals/salts added (CaCl2, Epsom/MgSO4, Chalk/CaCO3, and Gypsum/CaSO4 are the main ones, baking soda/NaHCO3 and non-iodinized table salt/NaCl are also sometimes added). Brewing software such as Brewfather can calculate these additions. Do not heat RO or distilled H₂O without first adding minerals as it might attack the stainless steel heaters. Technical note on H₂O chemistry: For beginner brewers, as a general rule, if tap H₂O tastes good, it can be used for brewing. More advanced brewers will want to learn more about its chemistry, as it can have a significant impact on the beer. Local municipalities normally make their analysis reports available. Data from these can be entered into brewing software such as Brewfather and a local profile created. From this, the program can make suggestions for how to add brewing salts based on a style of beer and/or target profile. This article discusses more about H₂O chemistry for brewing beer.

Total volume (‘strike volume’) can be calculated based on the full boil volume. While each recipe will differ with different ingredients, this volume is approximately 1.25–1.75 times the final amount of beer you are making, so for a 118L/1BBL batch of beer, the initial volume will be approx 148–200L/40–54USG (grain absorbs approximately it’s own weight in H₂O, about 10% of final volume is boiled off, and 5–10% is absorbed by hops and yeast so if you want 118L/31USG of beer and start with 20kg/44lbs of grain, you need to start with approx 160L/43USG).

If one wants to rinse (called ‘sparging’) the grain as the sugar water (‘wort’) drains from the Mash Colander at the end of the mash period, a portion of the total can be withheld and added as rinse or ‘sparge’ as the Colander is being lifted out of the fermenter. While this step is not absolutely necessary, it can increase the recovery of sugar from the grain by a small amount. As a general guideline, the sparge volume to add is about 10–20% of the full boil volume (e.g., for a 118L/31USG batch, 15-20L/4-5USG could be withheld to sparge with).

The liquid is heated with the electric immersion heaters to approximately 5­–8°C/10–15°F above the mashing temperature. This is called the ‘strike temperature’ (normally around 73°C/163°F for ales) and is higher than the mash temperature because as grain is added, it will cool to a typical mash temperature of around 65°C/150°F (a few degrees cooler will make a ‘drier’ beer and a few degrees warmer will make a ‘sweeter’ beer).

2. Mashing Grain Ingredients: 60–90 minutes

Once at your strike temperature, the Mash Colander is added or lowered into the fermenter—if not already in place. (If adding extract, when the liquid is hot, add the extract and mix the extract until it fully dissolves before turning the heat back on ensuring no extract is sitting on the heaters where it could scorch—check out the bottom valve to ensure no extract has settled there.)

The temperature on the controller is then adjusted to your mash temperature and crushed malted (malt is simple cereal grain that has been soaked in warm H₂O and allowed to sprout, activating the sugar making enzymes inside—as soon as it starts to sprout, the maltster quickly dries it) grain ingredients are added according to the recipe, using the following steps:

1. Have a proper sized malt crush — a consistent crush of 1–1.2mm/0.04-0.048” gives great grain bed fluidity and great mash efficiency.
   
   
2. Add the base malts in first (they don’t tend to pulverize, whereas many specialty malts are roasted/toasted longer which leads to further crystallization and when crushed, they turn to powder). Mixing in rice hulls can also improve grain bed fluidity.
   
   
3. Sprinkle the malts in, don’t dump them in­—add them in such a way that they settle without clumping. This reduces the need for mixing.
   
   
4. If there is floating or clumping, use the mash mixer only in the top 2/3 of the Colander; after this, it is not required to mix again, but a brief, gentle stir of the top 2/3 of your mash, at the 1/3 and 2/3 time point of your mash period (e.g., at 20 and 40 minutes time) can improve mash efficiency by ensuring there is no channelling through the grain bed. Ensure the pump is off whenever manually mixing the malt or grain to minimize grain being drawn out of the bottom of the Colander where it could scorch on heaters or plug the pump.
   
   
5. Let the added malt sit for 10–15 minutes time before starting the pump (let the grain fully absorb).
   
   
6. Manually remove the grain that settled to the bottom of the fermenter (e.g., out of the bottom port and it can be added back to the top), and then connect the pump hose. Ensure there is no restriction in the hose before operating pump.
   
   
7. Open the pump discharge valve slowly and follow the flow recirculation rate in Table D.
   
   
8. For added safety, turn the element(s) off any time you are adding or mixing malt.
   
   
9. During the mash keep the heater output as low as possible to help prevent scorching the element (eg., 10–20%).

Confirm pH (and adjust to 5.1–5.3 if necessary—there are several ways to adjust pH, but one is to add a small amount of sodium bicarbonate/baking soda to raise the pH if it is too low, or add a small amount of calcium sulfate/gypsum or add acid such as lactic or phosphoric if the pH is too high; give time to adjust before remeasuring), and let the mashing begin! (‘Mashing’ is the process whereby proteins/enzymes in the grain are activated to process complex sugars/starches and make them accessible for yeast to digest.) For more information, search for ‘Mash’ on the website.

During the mash, recirculating the sugar liquid—with the temperature sensor. If the pump equipment is running during the mash, care needs to be taken not to circulate too fast. If the wort level in the Mash Colander rises, the flow from the pump should be slowed (see next step). If the level rises but does not drop when the pump flow is slowed, there might be a ‘stuck mash’ (the grain is preventing liquid from passing down through the grain bed), which might require stopping the pump and stirring to reduce grain compaction. (Increasing the size of the grain crush and adding rice hulls are two of the best ways to avoid a stuck mash. A crush size of 1–1.2mm /0.040–0.048” is recommended.) Additional tips for preventing a stuck mash and preventing dry-firing of the heater can be found by searching for ‘stuck mash’ on the BREWHA website.

Recirculation will need to be throttled (by partially closing a valve downstream from the pump equipment, either attached to the pump exit, or the Mash Colander) in order to ensure that the grain bed does not compact and that the element does not become exposed. The flow rate will depend on the ‘fluidity’ of your grain bed which is primarily a factor of your crush size—a small crush adds more ‘fines’ that plug up the bed and slow the flow rate. A general guideline for wort recirculation/flow rate (per unit of time) is shown in Table D.

When recirculating, measure the temperature of the grain bed and the wort entering the Colander to confirm that it is at the target temperature (a simple pen thermometer works great). If it isn’t, the temperature around the stainless electric immersion heating elements may need to be raised a few degrees above the target mash temperature. This is particularly true with the Small/5USG/20L BIAC equipment (typically used for homebrew scale), as the low recirculation rate making time to cool down while in the hose.

 

3. Vorlauf the Grains: 10–20 minutes

If you didn't recirculate during the mash, it should be at the end of the mash period. The grain inside the Mash Colander forms a filter that captures small malt/grain particles as wort passes down through the grain bed in a process called ‘vorlauf.’ Minimizing the amount of grain in your boil making the beer’s flavor better. Flow rates should be close to that listed in Table D of this section to help avoid the risk of a stuck mash and damage to the element. It should be recirculated until it clears up. (This step is not used if brewing with extract kits.)

4. Lautering and Heatup: 30–60 minutes

When mashing is complete, the Mash Colander is lifted out (using an overhead electric chain hoist is desirable, as it is possible to raise the Colander slowly to allow for more gradual separation of grain and wort; for homebrew setups, Harbor Freight or Princess Auto have inexpensive solutions, for commercial kits, BREWHA distributes the high-quality Japanese made Kito/Harrington brand hoists). The wort drains from the grain (out through the false bottom of the Mash Colander) in a process called ‘lautering.’ Sparge can be added to rinse the grain and increase boil volume. Fresh H₂O for sparging can be added as the level drops, maintaining a ~2cm/1” layer on top of the grain bed. It is generally recommended that sparge be 75°C/167°F to increase the ‘fluidity’ of the grain and wash out the sugar more readily, however, cooler H₂O can be used. Sparge can be pre-heated in a separate dual-purpose hot liquor tank, or, can be heated by passing it through the fermenter jacket. The Flow Meter (Figure 57) can be attached to the jacket and used to measure the sparge (for more information search for ‘sparge’ on the BREHWA website). Once grain is removed, the Immersion Electric Heating Element is gradually turned up to 100% to heat up to boiling. (For brewers using a Tabletop Power Controller, during the boil the contactor whip can be unplugged from the ETC (Electronic/Digital Temperature Controller) and plugged directly into a live receptacle such as a wall socket and the power to the element controlled completely by the power output knob on the Tabletop Controller. For brewers using 120V power, to protect the ETC from overheating, plug the element directly into a wall socket during the boil.) Emptying your jacket before boiling is recommended to reduce heat loss to the air. (This step is not used if brewing with extract kits.)

5. Boiling: 60–90 minutes 

Once you get a rolling boil, the element power output (0–100%) can be adjusted to influence the rate of evaporation and control the final volume for fermentation. Ensure steam can escape as the steam carries away some compounds that would otherwise add off-flavors in the beer. It is a good idea to closely monitor the start of boil and turn the power down/off if necessary to prevent a boil over (especially important in the first few minutes of the boil until the foam or ‘hot break’ subsides). If using the steam condenser equipment, an anti-foam agent such as the vegetable oil–based Patco 376 or Atmos 300K should be added to prevent foaming. Boiling improves the flavor and kills microbes. Hops can be added into the Hop Basket or Heavy Duty Hop Spider once the foam subsides. Early addition or ‘boil’ hops provide bitterness to balance beer sweetness, and late addition or ‘aroma’ hops provide flavor/aroma. There are many different kinds of hops that contribute different notes to the beer. Experimenting with different hops will let you determine which hops you like best. Hops that have high acidity are generally used as bittering hops (during the boil) and hops with low bitterness are typically used as aroma hops, late in the boil, or at the end of boil, or during fermentation. New methods in hop drying are improving the flavor profile of hops, making them more flavorful while being less 'herby' or 'grassy'.

An additive such as Irish Moss (carrageenan) or a commercial flocculant such as Whirlfloc (added for the last 5–10 minutes of the boil) can help remove proteins and yield clearer beer; used alongside proper mashing technique, a highly ‘flocculant’ yeast (one that easily clumps and settles to the bottom of the fermenter where it can be removed) and healthy fermentation will result in clearer beer.

For the last 10 minutes time of the boil, the lid (with all valves removed and lid ports left open) can be set in place to let steam sanitize the lid (don’t clamp the lid as steam needs to escape; the pressure relief valve should be tested regularly and always installed on the lid). During this period the element power can be turned down (e.g., 40–70%) on the controller to reduce the risk of boiling over. The process should be monitored during this entire period to ensure boiling over does not occur, as it will foam more readily when the lid is in place. If not heat sanitized either with steam or in boiling H₂O, the lid fittings should be sanitized with chemicals. 

If completing a 30-45 minute ‘hop stand’ (to add hop aroma and flavor into the beer with minimal bitterness), once the heaters are turned off, the empty jacket should be filled with cold tap H₂O to cool the wort to ~75°C/170°F and tthen given a quick stir with a sterile mixer to equalize the temperature throughout the fermenter before adding hops.

6. Cooling: 30–120 minutes time (depending on chilling media temperature, fermenter size and flow rate)

Once boiling is complete, a chilling liquid (e.g., cold tap H₂O) is sent through the fermenter jacket (or wort is ran through our plate chiller, watch this video on installation and operation of our plate chiller). It is important to keep the pressure of the chilling media in the jacket below 5psi (7psi in the 4-in-1) or the vessel could be damaged (keep main vessel body below 3psi in the 3-in-1 and 14.9psi in the 4-in-1). No restrictions should be placed on the outflow of the jacket and the exit/drain hose should be larger than the inlet hose otherwise pressure could build up in the jacket. Care should be taken that no restriction can impede flow and damage the fermenter (e.g., a hose kinking or valve accidentally closing). When using tap H₂O in the jacket for chilling, a pressure regulator should be installed before the jacket to help ensure pressure does not build up in the jacket. The lid should be installed to keep out airborne contaminants, but a port should be kept open to air during the cooling period, as a vacuum could form as it cools, damaging the fermenter (or a few psi of CO2 can be added and maintained into the fermenter to counteract any loss of pressure as it cools and contracts). A pressure and vacuum relief valve should be installed on the lid to help protect the inside of the vessel (inspect the valve frequently to ensure it is operating correctly). Don’t slow the flow rate of the chilling media too much, as a good flow rate is necessary for faster chilling (the greater the temperature difference between the chilling media leaving the jacket and the wort, the faster the chilling rate). To protect the fermenter, alway use the Pressure Regulator when cooling. If tap water is not at least 10°C/20°F below your yeast pitching temperature, it should be used for the majority of cooling (e.g., down to 30°C/90°F) and for Small/5USG/20L, Medium/10USG/40L, and Large/15USG/60L systems the Brewery Chiller can be used for the rest (never use the Chiller for cooling wort that is over 30°C/90°F). For the 1.5BBL-15BBL brewing systems however, due to their much greater volume, one of our 950L/250USG or 2500L/650USG Cold Liquor Tank should be used. For example, if you want to pitch yeast at 20°C/70°F and your tap water is 20°C/70°F (which is too warm to bring the wort down to 20°C/70°F in a reasonable time), first run tap water through the fermenter jacket to bring the wort down from boiling temperatures to around 30°C/90°F and then connect the Cold Liquor Tank (which was chilled overnight) to your fermenter jacket to bring it the rest of the way down to 20°C/70°F. Finally connect the Brewery Chiller for any final small adjustments and to maintain fermentation temperature. When the wort is ready to have yeast pitched, a sample/gravity reading is taken (to measure the amount of sugar at the start of fermentation). Though not necessary, for the larger systems (e.g., 5 and 7BBL), in addition to using the jacket for chilling, to reduce chill times, some customers will use a separate plate chiller to increase surface area and will run a closed loop of hot wort out from the fermenter, through the plate chiller, and back into the fermenter. (Passing boiling wort through the lines, pump and plate chiller for the last several minutes of boil will sanitize them; for best results, always thoroughly clean the chiller immediately after use.)

7. Filtering and Resting, Pitching Yeast: 10 minutes

When the wort reaches yeast-pitching temperature, the protein that has settled to the bottom is removed out of the bottom port (generally this is 2–5% of the total volume). To facilitate healthy yeast at the start of fermentation, oxygen (or filtered air) is normally added to the vessel through the bottom port with the Aeration Stone or with homebrew scale, the Mash Mixer can be used to stir it up and add air (just ensure you have had the Mixer in boiling water for a few minutes to sanitize it). The addition of oxygen in the bottom also helps equilibriate the temperature inside, as the rising bubbles stir it up inside. The addition of oxygen can be precisely measured by gas flow meters (and the amount of dissolved oxygen tested by dissolved oxygen meters), but as a general rule, pure oxygen should be added for 1–5 minutes, and air (20% oxygen) for 8–10 minutes (longer for the largest tanks). The temperature is checked again to ensure it is correct for adding yeast, and if no further chilling is necessary, the yeast is pitched, the gas blow-off hose connected to a lid port (with the distil end of the hose in a bucket of water) and the lid sealed. Fermentation should start within 12–36 hours as evidenced by bubbles appearing in the air lock/bucket.

8. Rinsing Out Mash Colander and Pump Assembly: 15 minutes

If not rinsed out with sparge as it was added to the to top of the Colander, the Colander, pump and hoses should be thoroughly rinsed out now with warm water.

9. Fermentation with Yeast: 7–14 days 

To maintain fermentation temperature, the Temperature Control Valve/Solenoid (TCV) (if using cold tap water) or Brewery Chiller are used. When programmed to the desired fermentation temperature, the ETC will power the TCV or Brewery Chiller (or chiller pump depending on one’s preferred setup; see the Brewery Chiller setup section of the manual for more details on setup) which will put chilling media into the jacket whenever the fermenter rises above the set temperature. When the fermenter is cooled back down to the set temperature the TCV or Chiller will stop the circulation of cooling media. Technical note: most beer styles are fermented at or below room temperature so only cooling is needed during fermentation, but if needing a warm ferment (e.g., for kettle sours or saisons) the fermenter can be connected to the controller (additional small controllers can be purchased if heating multiple fermenters) for warming. Power output should only be 2–3% so that the heaters do not scorch the yeast. After fermentation has slowed down (4–6 days for ales and 1–2 weeks for lagers), yeast can be removed out of the bottom of the fermenter (first remove the blow-off hose from water or add 1–2psi of CO2 to the top of the fermenter so that water from your blow-off tank is not sucked into the fermenter). This will help ensure yeast cake does not harden and make removal/cleaning difficult.

10. Conditioning and Carbonation : 1–4 weeks

The time it takes for ‘conditioning’ (maturing of the flavor) to occur depends on the style of beer: light, simple ales take 1-2 weeks, lagers or dark, complex beers can take up to 4 weeks or longer. Fermentation mostly completes (that is, it reaches final gravity) normally within a week or two, but it is the final ‘cleanup’ work yeast does that will take beer from tasting ‘good’ to tasting ‘great’.  By sampling the beer during fermentation one can learn to tell when it is finished. For bottle conditioned beers, this stage occurs in the bottom and beer is transferred to sanitized bottles when there is just enough residual sugar still in the fermenting beer to carbonate the beer in the bottles. It is important not to transfer to bottles too early or the bottles can explode due to too much pressure inside. With homebrew, the fermentation can be fully completed and then a measured dose of sugar solution added to each bottle to ensure proper carbonation (see 'bottling' article in the learn section).

Prior to transfer, to help clear the new beer (and make transfer easier if the beer if carbonated), it is often ‘crashed’ to near freezing temperatures for several days. A product like Biofine can also be added at this point to assist with sedimentation. Our removable neoprene insulating jackets can be installed on our regular fermenters to help the Chiller get the beer several degrees colder than would be possible without the jacket. If cold crashing, be sure to add CO2 pressure to offset any vacuum that forms as the beer cools and shrinks. For more information on carbonating in bottles or naturally carbonating in the 4-in-1 fermenter, search for ‘carbonate’ on the BREWHA website. If carbonating in kegs, kegs can be stored in a cold room with 10-14psi of gas pressure depending on the style of beer (carbonation occurs much faster and at lower pressure if the beer is cold)

11. Racking/Transferring to Bottles or Kegs: 15–60 minutes

The beer is ready and can be served directly from the fermenter, our transferred to kegs, or connected to canning or bottling machine for putting the beer in bottles or cans, or if making homebrew and filling bottles at home, the bottles and be filled through a hose directly attached to the racking arm. Bottles should be sterilized before filling and each bottle have priming sugar added to it for carbonation (bottles can be filled with fully carbonated beer using the carbonation method mentioned above, but if doing so, the beer will need to be taken as close to freezing as possible before putting in the bottle or there will be much foaming). For detailed instructions on kegging search for ‘clean kegs’ and ‘fill kegs’ on the BREWHA website or watch the video here.

12. Cleaning the Fermenter for the Next Brew: 10-15 minutes

Once the beer is removed, all that is left is cleaning the fermenter out and readying it for the next new batch. Any yeast remaining at the bottom can be disposed and the fermenter rinsed out. A stainless safe scrubby such as the Euro Scrubber can be used to clean off the krausen that has dried on the side. The valves should be removed, ball valves disassembled and rinsed out and the ports/ferrules should be cleaned out, the heaters removed and heating rods thoroughly cleaned off. And that’s how to make beer! The fermenter can be reassembled and readied for the next brew. 

Note: For making Hard Seltzer or Kombucha or 'wash' for distilling rum or other sugar or juice based liquors, the steps 5-12 would be used. At the end, hard seltzer can be put in a bottle or can or keg and same with Kombucha, which can be put into a bottle or other serving or distribution methods. When making wine in these vessels, the steps 9-12 would be used. Wine is made by fermenting grape juice (from fresh juice or kits) in the fermenter and once the wine is fully fermented, the wine can be transferred to a bottle or wine cartons. The level of wine fermentation can be tracked by monitoring the sugar levels during fermentation and the wine bottled when fermentation is complete. 

Note: If making homebrew for the first time it is recommended to get the Small 5 Gallon All in One Brew System or Medium 10 Gallon All in One Brew System as it is the easiest to work with, but some homebrewers want to plunge right in and get the Large equipment. If your end goal is not to just homebrew but open a commercial brewery taproom or brewpub, then to get the Large All in One Brew System often makes the most sense. 

Assembly video for the BREWHA BIAC complete brewing system
Benefits of the BIAC complete microbrewery system
BIAC complete brewery system product page