Installing an Overhead Hoist and Trolley System

In this video we overview how to set up an inexpensive overhead hoist on a rail.

Two Uses for an Overhead Hoist and Trolley

This setup can be useful for lifting the pilot Mash Colander, since being on a rail, once lifted, the Colander can be easily moved over where it can be lowered and emptied of grain. It can also be helpful in a pro-brewery for lifting the Lid off of the larger fermenters. On the pro systems, having to lift the lid off with the main hoist, set it down, and then connect the Colander involves a few steps, so with an inexpensive second hoist like this, the lid can just be kept in the air off to the side where it is out of the way and the process is streamlined. The pro systems will use an I beam that is either structural, or comes with legs (like a gantry), or if an engineer approves, attached to ceiling trusses or joists like we have here, where we have reinforced the trusses vertically and attached an I beam underneath. Without legs is nicer for the brew space but in some situations might not be feasible.

Safety Considerations when Installing an Overhead Hoist

Now first a quick word about safety. Inexpensive hoists, like this one from Vevor that we are using today, or like ones found on Amazon or at Harbor Freight or Princess Auto do not have the same quality of construction as the Kito/Harrington brand we sell for the pro systems. Not even close. But they are inexpensive so some customers want to use them for light loads, like lifting the pilot Mash Colander or lids of pro system fermenters. Also, while we demonstrate how the hoists can be secured overhead, it all depends on the construction of your building and the amount of load you are lifting, so it’s best to consult an engineer before using your hoist. Loads under 200lb like for lids or the pilot system are typically pretty safe especially when the load is spread across several joists or trusses but always best to make sure. And always remember to never stand underneath a suspended load.

Types of Overhead Hoist: Manual and Electric

When purchasing a hoist, you can either purchase a manual chain hoist, or a small electric hoist like this one from Vevor. One thing I would recommend if getting an electric hoist is to get one that doesn’t lift faster than 15’/minute. Our Kito hoists lift at about 7’ or 2m/minute. This Vevor hoist lifts at 13’ or 4m/minute. You don’t want the hoist lifting up too rapidly as it causes extra stress on the hardware when it starts up, is harder to control its rise distance, and it increases the likelihood of a stuck mash.

Parts Needed to Install an Overhead Hoist and Trolley

Now for the setup. You can see here what we purchased (it cost about $300):

1. 10’ of 1-5/8” 12Ga slotted strut channel and ($60)
2. 3’ of ½” threaded rod Home Depot ($10)
3. Two strut channel end stops and ($20)
4. One two-wheel strut channel trolley assembly from Amazon ($20)
5. One ½” screw pin shackle McMaster Carr ($13)
6. 8 ½” locknuts and washers from Home Depot ($10)
7. Four strut channel hanger brackets from Amazon ($20)
8. And one 1100lb hoist with remote from Vevor ($150)

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9. If you already have an I beam in your brewery and want to put the hoist on your existing beam, you don’t need items 1-7, just item 8 and a 1100lb trolley like one from Vevor

Assembling the Overhead Hoist and Trolley

Steps to assembling the overhead hoist with trusses:

1. First cut the 10’ strut channel into two 5’ pieces
2. Cut the threaded rod into lengths 2”/5cm longer than the height of your trusses (ours are 2x4s so we will cut them at 5.5”); you will only need four pieces. (Installing a nut before you cut the rod, then removing the nut helps ensure the thread is not ruined when you cut it.)
3. Install a locknut and a washer on one end of the rods (tighten until ¼”/8mm of rod is showing) and insert them up through the strut channel hangers (the hanger should open down with the rod going up and the washer and nut are on the inside of the hanger at the top).
4. Lay one of the 5’ strut channels across the top side of the rafters with open side up, spanning two rafters (ours are on 2.5’ centers’ so that there is about 1.2’ of strut channel extending past either side).
5. Insert a rod assembly up through one of the slots on the strut channel and once through, install a washer and lock nut to the top end. Place one on the outside of both other trusses, and one on each side of the middle truss.
6. Slide the second strut channel through the hangers which should be hanging below the trusses, then tighten the upper nuts on the threaded rod until the strut channel is pulled tight against the underside of the truss. Since the socket used for tightening might be larger than the channel opening, you might need to tap it down to the nut with a hammer.
7. Add the cross bolt on the strut hanger to ensure the hanger grips the strut channel securely.
8. Add one channel end stop to one end of channel.
9. Install one trolley assembly into the strut channel.
10. Add the second channel end stop to the other end of channel.
11. Attached the shackle to the trolley.
12. Attach the hoist to the shackle.

And that’s it. An economical (this entire apparatus cost less than $300) and kinda fun means to easily lift the Mash Colander out of the pilot fermenter and move it over to the side where it can be lowered and emptied.

And as mentioned, if you are wanting to use this to lift one of the pro fermenter lids during mash and will be using your existing I beam that your main Kito hoist is on, just purchase a second hoist trolley like this one from Vevor. Once the trolley is installed on your I beam, the hoist can be connected like this.

Thanks for watching and if you have any questions about installing hoists or gantry systems for use with the BREWHA BIAC brewing system, feel free to reach out to us using the form on the BREWHA website.